Prosecco rosé conquering the DOC.

In recent years on the foreign market, there has been an exponential increase in requests for a new type of Prosecco, namely Prosecco Rosè which, until recently, was neither recognized nor regulated by the rules of wine law and, in particular, of DOC and DOP. Such new market needs have prompted Prosecco trade associations to consider a change in production regulations in order to introduce the “Prosecco Rosè millesimato” type of wine into the protected category of Prosecco DOC. This article aims to examine the’amendment process, in light of wine law regulations, as well as the consequences that will result in the’export of wine products “made in Italy”.

1. Brief introductory remarks

The agri-food sector is distinguished by the high quantity’and variety’of products, a circumstance that requires a strict classification system so that certain products with certain characteristics of processing and origin can be properly recognized by the final consumer. To this end, a series of designations have been established, including DOC, DOCG, IGT and others, now as well as regulated by wine law, entered the common language.

Specifically, the acronym conferred on the greatest number of products è the PDO, lett. “Denominazione d’Origine Protetta”, which distinguishes foods and wines (including Prosecco) whose gustatory characteristics can be unequivocally attributed to’belonging to a specific geographical territory. It should be recalled that in the wine context, tracing a product back to a given territory acquires primary importance.

For this reason, the acronym PDO è assigned only to food specialties produced and processed in circumscribed areas and in compliance with a precise production specification, handed down for generations. An example of this is the balsamic vinegar of Modena. The acronym DOC, on the other hand, is affixed exclusively to wines produced in specific geographical areas characterized by particular conditions of vines, environment and production methods. Classic example è Prosecco, a white wine with “Denominazione di Origine Controllata” produced in Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia.

An additional level of exclusivity è to products is guaranteed by the acronym DOCG, “Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita”, for example, Brunello di Montalcino.

Of particular importance è is also the acronym PGI “Indication of Protected Origin”, established by Regulation (EC) No. 510/2006, indicates foods and wines that are typical of a specified geographical area and that lì are produced, processed or elaborated: this means that at least one of the three production stages must be carried out in the specified territory, while the others may come from a different region or even from abroad. At the time of writing, Italy1 has at least 137 PGI food products to which 118 wines2 including Prosecco are added. PGI products or wines may alternatively use the Italian acronym IGT, or “Indicazione Geografica Tipica” which, however, has è been superseded by the PGI category.

In order to benefit from the IGT classification a wine in addition to complying with the conditions expressly provided for in Regulation (EC) No. 510/2006, in any case, it must be produced with at least 85% of grapes from the indicated geographical area, in compliance with the rules of wine law.

2. DOC and DOCG

With specific reference to the acronyms DOC and DOCG, it is worth noting how, these, despite still being widely used today, have been included in the Community PDO category. Therefore, it è resulted in the development of two distinct systems of wine classification, European and Italian. The European legislation è was introduced with EC Regulation 479/20083 on the common organization of the wine market, which was implemented in Italy by Legislative Decree 61/2010 (“Protection of designations of origin and geographical indications of wines, in implementation of'Article 15 of Law July 7, 2009, no. 88”) which distinguishes wines with designation of origin (where we find the acronyms PDO and PGI) from wines without designation of origin (so-called “varietal wines” and “generic wines”), and with Regulation (EC) No 491/20094. In Italy, on the other hand, the è classification is provided for by Law No. 164/1992, which includes the acronyms DOGC, DOC and IGT.

3. The case of prosecco spumante rosè millesimato

As è can be easily guessed, products that are awarded these recognitions gain added value, as they see their distinctive characteristics certified and their high quality assured. For this reason, the proposal to introduce the type of “Prosecco spumante rosè millesimato” among the DOCs, promoted by the members of the Consortium for the Protection of Prosecco Doc è was the subject of extensive discussion. In fact, the President of the Consortium, said “It will be a very interesting way to diversify the’offer […] I believe it will be possible to produce, after the 2020 harvest, from 15 to 20 million rosé bottles out of the total 464 million produced in the Prosecco Doc” denomination.

Further support for this proposal è also came from the’current President of the Veneto Region, who claims that “Prosecco Rosé was a reality for lovers of good drinking, […] today this reality canò also boast official recognition. We have added a new gem to that diadem of 500 million bottles a’year that è the world of Prosecco”. In fact, counting Rosè among the Prosecco DOCs will allow’further qualification of a product already present on the market, which was not being provided with the tutelage and protection proper to Controlled Designations of Origin, in deference to the norms of wine law.

Sufficient to think that, according to a survey by Nomisma's Wine Monitor, in America 50% of respondents said they drank rosé wine at least once a year and 46% that it was Prosecco. Indeed, the recognition of the new type of Prosecco would, therefore, allow to increase the value of the product itself by limiting the trade of a Prosecco Rosè without the DOC requirements, thus protecting the market share. As a result, a significant link would be established between the product and the territory of’origin. The proposal to classify Prosecco Rosè as DOC has been opposed by the Vignaioli Indipendenti Trevigiani “FIVI” who already had concerns in 2018 about the introduction of the new type of Prosecco. Among the reasons underlying the criticism is the risk of dequalifying the entire Prosecco category, which would thus be “polluted” by introducing Pinot Grigio into a production already characterized by the’use of other red grape varieties present in the territory.

In addition, in the Treviso association’s opinion, the idea of Prosecco linked to a specific place would be lost, which, as è has already been said above, è is fundamental in order to affix the DOC (or DOP) label. A’further criticism is based on the’argument that if such a ì “hybrid” type of Prosecco were introduced, it would compromise any policy of enhancing the territory. Also supporting the skepticism of the Vignaioli Indipendenti Trevigiani è is Slow Wine, a guide of the wine world, which declares how the proposal is based solely on profit rather than a real attempt to valorize the territory. Thereò despite this, the National Wine Committee of the Ministry of Agriculture has already approved the amendment to the production specification that introduces the “rosè” variant.

The proposal, in fact, è was published in the Official Gazette No. 150 of 06/15/2020 with the clarification that this new type of Prosecco must have, determined characteristics such as obtaining from grapes of the Glera vine for at least 85% and from Pinot noir (vinified in red) from a minimum of 10% to a maximum of 15% (ex art. 2 of the proposal). The estimated timeframe for the’release of Prosecco Rosè for large-scale consumption is given as of January 1° 2021.

4. Issues hindering the amendment of the “Prosecco”

The amendment process stipulates that, before the proposal becomes final, 30 days must pass after publication in the Official Gazette during which those with an interest may appeal.

In fact, from the ’Trieste Farmers Association, on July 18, 2020, opposing the proposed amendment, pointed out how it did not comply with protocols placed to protect minorities, as the Prosecco areas did not include the “CarsoKras” area (which produces the so-called “Prosekar”).

In addition, in the ’opposition è it was pointed out that the amendment of the specifications had not incorporated the Slovenian language. In fact, since 2009, in order to prevent Prosecco from being grown all over the world, it was established that Prosecco canò be made from a specific grape, called “Glera”. Since that time è it has been possible to market Prosecco made from Glera grapes grown in nine DOC provinces located in Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The territory of interest also included a specific Friulian area, as the town called Prosecco is located in the province of Trieste. This locality, due to particularly stringent environmental regulations, which prevent the transplanting of new vineyards, needs special aid to allow the development of the area. Indeed, the Protocol that provided necessary aid è expired in 2016 without being renewed. Therefore, one can easily understand the reasons of the Trieste Farmers' Association, which behind the opposition to the Prosecco Rosè proposal, implies the intention to obtain more protections and renewal of aid for that specific territory to which Prosecco owes its name.

The Consortium for the Protection of Prosecco Doc has therefore prepared a counter-offer: “on the one hand, we offer a political endorsement to their claims, on the other, we have proposed a package of actions that would help to enhance the typicalitiesà that characterize that territory”. This made it possible to reach an agreement on July 29, 2020, according to which the Prosekar area will be included in the Prosecco Doc specification. Consequently, the process for the approval of the amendment was concluded with the approval in the Official Journal of the European Union C 362. Where, in point 1, è it was ruled that “È the type spumante rosé was inserted in order to introduce into the denomination a production of spumante obtained from grape varieties Glera B. and Pinot noir vinified in red”. And in point 9, nonetheless, there is explicit reference to the territories of the Carsokras: “In the designation of Prosecco è it is permitted to include on the label a reference to «province of Treviso» or «Treviso» or to «province of Trieste» or «Trieste» or «Pokrajina Trst» or «Trst», if the respective lots consist exclusively of grapes harvested from vineyards located in the relevant provinces and their processing and packaging of the product take place in the same province of grape production”.

5. Conclusions

In light of what has been discussed above, the’introduction of Prosecco Rosè Millesimato in the protected category of Prosecco DOC è is a first step forward to be able to respond to an increasing demand from foreign countries. In fact, the Consortium for the Protection of Prosecco DOC has stated that about 80 percent of the bottles produced (about 486 million) will be dedicated to the export market, involving about 11,460 winemakers, with the hope of generating positive economic growth.

Among the foreign countries of interest to Prosecco Rosè, mention should be made of Northern Europe, the U.S. and the U.K., whose strong demand, according to experts' estimates, could double production already next year.

In conclusion, the’introduction of the new certification will be able’to prevent any attempts at counterfeiting, standing in defense of Italian PDO and DOC products and preserving the geographical indications of our territory, so that’Prosecco Rosè Italiano, can become synonymous with Italian products of quality and excellence and appear, thanks to these characteristics, vehemently on the foreign market and take back that slice of the eastern market, where a product erroneously called Prosecco Rosè was already widespread for a long time, although it lacked the typical characteristics.

1 https://www.politicheagricole.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/2090;
2 https://www.politicheagricole.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/4625#id-2a1c4cce6d31ae2df2cf30a47cca7012;
3 Council Regulation (EC) No. 479/2008 of April 29, 2008, on the common organization of the market in wine, amending Regulations (EC) No. 1493/1999, (EC) No. 1782/2003, (EC) No. 1290/2005, and (EC) No. 3/2008 and repealing Regulations (EEC) No. 2392/86 and (EC) No. 1493/1999;
. 4 Council Regulation (EC) No 491/2009 of May 25, 2009 amending Regulation (EC) No 1234/2007 establishing a common organization of agricultural markets and on specific provisions for certain agricultural products (Single CMO Regulation);